Home Wine School Heads to France

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I took this picture!

While I love New York City and it's been my home for over 10 years now, it's time for a little change of scenery! Starting in September, my wife and I are picking up and moving to France for 9 months. Mostly because she's doing a masters in French through Middlebury College. I also have the ulterior motive of getting to pick grapes for the Harvest, and perfecting my long lost french skills.

So today I took my most major step towards securing said harvest job. I had to speak to Madame Lapierre, Marcel LaPierre's wife, as she's the one in charge of hiring the harvest workers. The catch? She speaks zero English. I've been taking some review lessons for a couple weeks but other than that I haven't spoken a lick of french since college, almost 15 years ago. In short, I was nervous beyond words for this conversation. I'd been introduced to Marcel by a representative of Kermit Lynch, the importer that brings his wines to the states. He told me I could come and pick grapes there, but his wife is the one who's really in charge, so how would she respond to my broken French? Would she come back with a bunch of fastly spoken, cryptic gobble-dee-gook? Would I even be able to make it past Bonjour?

Now you might be wondering right now, "Who is Marcel LaPierre?" Good question! Marcel is a winemaker in Beaujolais, which is in the southernmost portion of Burgundy. You've probably heard of Beajolais Nouveau, it's the wine that comes out right before thanksgiving. It's cheap, cheerful, super fruity, and pretty universally derided by serious and pretentious wine drinkers. The technique used to make these wines is called carbonic maceration, and it can lead to notes of banana and strawberry in the wine. There's also a lot of specialized industrially created yeasts that can enhance these juicy fruity flavors. Why do wine snobs hate this wine? Because it's simple and cheap, and if that's true it must be bad right? Well it all depends on your point of view. Some also hate the idea that most nouveau is a product of giant coporate-style winemaking. But, where your opinion lies, Marcel LaPierre represents the exact opposite of the Nouveau style of winemaking.

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Marcel is the founding of member of what's called the Gang of Four in Beaujolais. The Gang of Four is a group of winemakers that are dedicated to bringing back natural winemaking techniques to Beaujolais. They don't use carbonic maceration, or chemically created yeasts. Instead they let the grapes ferment naturally, for as long as it takes, with indigenous yeasts that occur naturally. Marcel himself is also known as an extremely selective picker. He throws away a lot of grapes, looking for only the perfect fruit. The result is he makes a wine that is very subtle and floral, much less juicy and fruity than the nouveau style. Marcel is definitely talked about as the best winemaker in Beaujolais, and the amazing thing is that his wine only costs $22 a bottle retail in the US! It's lucky for us that Nouveau has such a bad rap because it's really helped keep down prices of all wine coming from the area. This wine drinks well young, but it also has the potential to age for at least 10 years, possibly more. For me personally, this place is a dream job. It also doesn't hurt that the LaPierre's are known  to feed their workers a cornucopia of extravagant homecooked French food.

So how'd the telephone call go? Well, I couldn't understand everything she said, but I'm pretty sure I got most of it. I believe the harvest starts around September 6th. Or was that the 16th? Those numbers sound kind of similar in French. The one sticking point was when she tried to spell her email address for me. We got stuck on some kind of symbol, I think it was probably an underscore or a dash, but unfortunately my high school and college french teachers didn't think that was the most important thing to teach me. And who can blame them? It's a very 21st century problem really. Anyway, it should be fine as she said I could email the general email address for the Domaine and it would get to her. Just one more hurdle down until I'm on my hands and knees, picking grapes in France!

Update:

Alice Feiring pointed out to me that Marcel does in fact use carbonic maceration of a sort. It's a technique developed by Chauvet, the founder of the Gang of Four. Instead of using the CO2 that is created by fermentation to exert pressure on the grapes, they apparently use dry ice. Dry ice is a solid form of CO2, and, according to Alice contains some kind antioxidant that allows them to not use any sulphur. Marcel did invite me to stay on for vinification, so I guess I will learn all about this technique when I get there!

Trust your Retailer!

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While working in a wine store, one thing has become clear to me-- a lot of people don't trust retail wine store workers. I think there's a fear that somoene's lack of knowledge will be dangled in front of them, or that they'll be forced to spend more on a bottle than they want to. Worst of all the retailer might actually make you taste some wine! Gasp! You might think I'm being funny, but there are a lot of times when I have a bottle open, and I'm greeted with looks of shock and fear when I offer someone a taste from it.

What I'd like to get across in this post is that you really shouldn't be one of these people. While there may be stores that intimidate you, and that try to push bottles of wine on you that don't want, you'll never know if you're in one of those stores until you open your mouth and talk to them. I can tell you that the people who do open themselves up to us end up with better wine. And that's not some secretive backroom elitist transaction, it's just that we start to know their palates really well, and every time they walk in the store we can give them a new wine that they'll like, and maybe even expand their tastes little by little as they explore the world of wine with us as their guide.

This is the kind of relationship a retailer can provide for you. And I really believe that the retailer is unique in the world of wine for what we offer to the consumer. Now I may have a bit of a chip on my shoulder about this, but I often feel that the retailer is the least respected wine professional out there. In comparison the sommelier is lauded above all as the gatekeeper of all things fancy and tasty, even though there is absolutely no standardized international certification to qualify one for the job. My point here is not the sommeliers don't know what they're doing. It's just that there is just as much chance of a sommelier being snotty,intimidating or uneducated, as there is of finding the same qualities in a retailer.

The retail perspective is unique because we have to be laser-focused on price and value, and we have to know all palates, disregarding our own personal tastes. The prices on our shelves have to provide quality and value, because there's very little barrier to a customer walking out the door and going to the store down the street that has better wine at the same  or lower price. When you're in a restaurant, you're pretty much stuck with what they have on their list, and price distinctions become much less obvious. Sommeliers do a fantastic job of pairing the specific food in their restaurant with the specific wines on their list. But that's a very deliniated decision. They spend a lot of time (hopefully) tasting each dish and each wine in their cellar, to come up with the best matches. When they've found a pairing that works, they can go back to it again and again, because food and wine pairings will taste good to somoene, even if they wouldn't normally like that wine on its own. But as a retailer, we have to match wines with any cuisine in the world, and a lot of times we have to be able to pick wines to go without food, while knowing very little about the buyer's tastes. That's a lot harder and more nebulous. The only way for us to do it well is to get some help from you! If you're worried you don't know how to talk about what you like, that's OK. Just trust us and see how we do. If you don't like what we gave you, come back and tell us and we'll try something different.

Retailers also have a leg up over wine critics. It's not a new idea to say that each critic, be it Robert Parker, Steve Tanzer, or Eric Asimov, have preferences for certain styles of wine. In the Oxford companion to wine, Jancis Robinson says over and over again that a certain grape finds it's best expression in this particular plot of land in France, or somewhere else in the world. And I might even by inclined to agree with her, as far as my personal tastes are concerned. But as a retailer, I have to disregard my tastes. Just because I think Loire valley cab franc is the most expressive funky wine on the planet, doesn't mean a thing to someone who loves an oaky buttery chardonnay from California. So I have to be able to evaluate that chardonnay against all the other chardonnays on the market. All we do as retailers all day long is taste and spit and talk to each other about, is this particular chardonnay a better example of the grape from California than this other one? Is this one priced at $15.99 really that much better than the other one priced at $12.99? Once in a while we come across the $12.99 wine that really is better than the $15.99 one, and that's why we push you to buy it, because we know you'll like it, and the low price will keep you coming back for more.

But if you don't open your mouth and talk to us, we can't even start to tell you about these special wines, and you'll miss out on getting something you really like.

So my message today is to open yourselves up a little bit, and start talking to us! Granted, you are taking a risk here. What if you do this in one of those intimidating snotty wine stores and they encourage you to buy a wine that costs more than you wanted to spend? Here's what you do: Don't buy it! And if it bothers you, don't go back to that store! They're probably not spending nearly enough time focusing on bringing a wide array of wines tailored to diverse palates if they're that snotty, so it's probably not the store for you. Now you've learned something about the store, and you're that much closer to finding a retailer you can trust.

The perect retailer to me is one who can remember what they sold you, and why the next time you come in. Ask them if they have a way to track your purchases though, just in case. Or keep your receipts and remember what you bought so you can tell them if you liked it or not. You might even want to keep a log of what tasted and whether you liked it or not. But the most important thing is you have to be willing to open your mouth and speak your mind to get any of this done. And once in a while, you might want to try the wine we're pouring. It's ok if you have to go the gym afterwords, it's only a little taste! And even if you don't like it, that's a great place for us to start to figure what you will like that's different in some way from what you just tried.

Good luck and happy wine buying!

Identifying Fruit in Red Wines

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When you're trying to identify the fruit characteristics in a red wine, I find it helpful to first try to decide if it's a red fruit or a black fruit. You can see examples of these on the aroma and flavor cards I've designed. Taking a look at the card, you can see that red fruits include things like raspberries and red cherries, while black fruits include blackberries and black cherries. For this lesson, the wine I've chosen to illustrate fruit qualities is the Arboretto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (which you can order from Frankly Wines). I picked this wine because it is a very simple, but good example of a fruity wine. It doesn't have very much earth or spice, but it does have plenty of fruit.

So what do you think? What kind of fruit do you taste in this wine? It can be fun to taste and smell a wine for a long time and debate with your friends if it's blackberries or if it's red cherries. But the important thing for you to get from this wine is that it is is predominantly fruit driven. The primary fruit quality I get from this wine is a sour red cherry, which is a very typical fruit quality to find in an Italian wine.

Do you like this wine? If you do, you could be lucky, as wines that are simple and fruity tend to be fairly inexpensive. A wine like this is a perfect pair with a tomato based pasta sauce. If you don't like it by itself, you may find that it comes into its own when paired with the right food. If you like this wine, you should try Shiraz from Australia, or just ask the salesperson at your local wine store for a nice fruity wine.

It should be noted that this wine is not sweet at all. In other words, there is no sugar in this wine. When a wine has no sugar in it, we refer to it as dry. There's no good reason for why we call it that, and it causes lots of confusion, but that is just the way it is. While this wine isn't sweet, it is very fruity. A lot of people come into the wine store asking for something sweet, and it's hard for us to tell what they mean. Most red wines are not sweet, but plenty of them are fruity. So now you're armed with the right vocabulary to get what you want the next time you ask a store clerk for help.

Web Lessons

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In this section, I give you a taste of what it's like to get a private class from me. I will usually recommend a specific wine to be tasted for each lesson. All of those wines can be ordered through Frankly Wines, my retail partner. But if you really want the full experience, you should order my wine class in a box, which comes complete with 6 bottles, and gorgeous laminated cards, placemats, and flavor and aroma cards that will guide you through the lessons.

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