The biggest thing to happen to wine in the early 20th century was Prohibition, in the 1920's. While Prohibition made the sale or use of alcohol illegal, there were a few loopholes, which often led to hilarious business ventures. Wine was allowed to be grown for sacramental and "medicinal" purposes, and home wine making on  a very small scale was also allowed. Some wineries were able to stay in business because of this. One of my favorite examples of this was called Chateau Le'chaim, a San Fransisco winery that supposedly provided wine to Jewish temples. In addition, many wineries would package grape must and ship it along with yeast tablets to home wine growers. Along with the package they would include a note that warned NOT to combine the yeast with the grapes, or else alcohol would be created!

Prohibition also had effects that lasted way past the 1920's. As a result of the poor quality of the wine being drank during that time, the American palate drifted away from wine. Most bathtub gin tasted a lot better than the wine people had access to, and cocktails became all the rage in the popular speakeasies. After prohibition was repealed, some states, such as Mississippi, chose to remain dry. Mississippi, in fact, didn't repeal prohibition until 1966! Those that did repeal the law started the arcane and confusing liquor laws that still exist today, designed to discourage liquor sales and consumption.

Wineries that had survived prohibition had many problems to deal with. Because of the decrease in revenue from low sales, wineries had fallen into disrepair. Their tanks and pumps had become rusty and infected with bacteria, and their barrels had started to rot. The great depression also had a devestating effect on the wine industry, as people could not afford to buy wine. A huge majority of the wineries went out of business in the first 4 years of the depression. Large Coporations, such as Seagram, Hiram, Walker, Schenley, and National, that had enough money to last through the downturn became the only source for wine through the 1940's.

 

19th Century California Wine History

This week I'm learning all about Napa Valley. First I'll start with a bit of history about wine in California in general.

California's history dates back to the 18th century, when, much like in South America, Jesuit monks established missions all along the coast of what we know as California today. The grape they planted they called Criolla, which is the same grape called Pais in Chile and Criolla Chica in Argentina. Today it's called the Mission grape.

California was for a long time a province of Spain, along with Mexico. In 1821, when Mexico achieved independence from Spain, California became a province of Mexico. The Jesuit missions were secularized and land grants were handed out under the direction of General Mariano Vallejo. One of these land grants went to George Yount in 1836. He called his land Rancho Caymus, and this land today is the center of Napa's best wine producing areas.

A lot of people began to arrive in California between the 1830's and 1860's. Jean Louis Vignes was the first to bring clippings of vitis vinifera vines from Bourdeaux. Later on, Charles Krug (not related to the Champagne Krugs), Joseph Schram, Gustave Niebaum, and Hamilton Crabb also came to the state. Hamilton Crabb started the Tokalon vineyard, which is still to this day a source for grapes for the very good Mondavi Reserve wines.

One very interesting winemaker during this time was Count Agoston Haraszthy, from Hungary. The count had previously made attempts to grow grapes in Wisconson and San Diego, without too much success. Then in 1856, he established the Buena Vista winery in Sonoma. Although his wines were doing well in California, he strongly believed that wines would never do well there until the Mission grape was abolished. He persuaded the governor to give him a commission to explore Europe and return with vine cuttings. He came back with over 100,000 vines, but unfortunately many of them were damaged irrevocably by the trip, and those that did survive were terribly mislabeled and disorganized. The trip left the count so poor that he left California to go to Nicaragua to start a sugar plantation, where he was promptly eaten by an alligator!

In the 1880's, the wine industry in California was rapidly expanding. The combination of the drop in imported European wine (due to phylloxera) and the new addition of transcontinental railroads, meant there was a newfound demand for wines from California. Many famous vineyards that still exist today, such as Chateau Montelena, Mayacamas, Simi Ridge, and Beaulieu, were established during this time. Phylloxera had actually begun to arrive in California in the 1860's. While it was positively identified in 1873, it didn't really have a widepsread effect on wine production until the 1880's. At this point, winemakers incorrectly believed they would be able to use vitis californica rootstock, which turned out not to be resistant to phylloxera at all. By the time they realized this, it was too late and the California wine industry was just as devestated by phylloxera as the rest of the world.  In 1897, the St. George du Lot rootstock was developed in France, and gradually vineyards were replanted. The positive side of the pest for California was that many of the Mission grape plantings were then replaced with grapes like Zinfandel, Sylvaner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the exchange of ideas neccessary to come up with the cure to phylloxera, many French techniques came with the vines, and the replantings were done more densley and frequently trained to wires. The one downside of these replantings was that many smaller wineries could not afford the expense and had to go out of business.

 

Grapes are like Tomatoes?

This might not fit into the rest of my posts on this blog, but I had this amazing experience last night, so I feel like I need to share it. I went to eat at Blue Hill at Stone Barns near Tarrytown, NY. This place is absolutely astounding. The restaurant is in the middle of the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, a small farm where they raise almost all the animals and grow almost all the vegetables that are served in the restaurant. They don't even have a real menu, just a list of potential ingredients the cooks can use to make your meal. But I don't really need to write a full review of the experience there, that's been done already. Here's a really good review, for starters.

What caught my attention was this moment when our waiter brought out a rather large tray of about a dozen different tomatoes, which he referred to as "varietals." As a wine person, that caught my ear. To me, a varietal starts with a plant carefully cloned in a lab to match the terroir. The process of growing and harvesting a varietal is a combination of art and science, and it's the only way to make really amazing wine. But tomatoes? Ok, now I was listening! He proceeded to name each varietal, and let me tell you, there were some crazy ones, including accordion tomatoes like these:

He went on to explain that the farm had planted about 80 different varietals of tomatoes, and then subsequently narrowed them down to 35 that they liked, and were presenting about 11 or so to us for our viewing pleasure.

This sparked a question that had occurred to me recently when I was in the South of France. My wife and I went on a market tour and kitchen tasting with a Michelin starred chef in Cannes. The vegetables I saw there were like nothing I had ever seen before. And I grew up near farms where we'd often stop by little roadside stands to buy freshly picked produce.  That farm produce was great, but the produce they had in the Cannes market was an entirely different animal, bursting with flavors that made you weak in the knees. Every bite made you feel blessed to be alive. Obviously they understand something different about growing vegetables in France. I found myself wondering what they did differently, and whether or not it had anything in common with the way they grow grapes. As I've written here before, wine makers in France (as well as everywhere else good wine is made) know that stressing the vine and reducing yields makes the flavor of the grapes more concentrated. The vine thinks it is dying, so it pours all its energy in to making its fruit, resulting in higher sugar levels and flavors.

So, my question for the waiter was, are there similarities between growing good wine grapes and growing great tomatoes? Does reducing yields make for more flavorful tomatoes? His answer-- Yes. He said apparently there is a lot in common, and they have discovered that reduced yields do make for better tomatoes. I had so many more questions, but there really wasn't time to go into it all in the middle of dinner. Do farmers know that reducing yields makes better vegetables? Do our farmers over-irrigate their crops to increase yields so they can make more money? Do they do that because they're afraid Americans won't buy them because we don't know what we're missing? Do vegetable plants need to be as stressed and starved for water and good soil as vines do, or is it just a question of pruning at a certain point during the growing cycle to reduce the yields? My questions go on and on.

I've perused the Stone Barns website, but it doesn't seem to have much information readily accessible about this sort of thing. Places like UC Davis have made great efforts to bring French wine making techniques to the United States, and we're all the benefactors of their work. Hopefully that's what Stone Barns is trying to do now. This is important to me, because when I tasted that produce in Cannes, my immediate thought was that I need more of this, and how much can real estate really cost on the Riviera? It was astounding to me that people who live there can eat like that every day. This market wasn't some special secret place hidden away like Stone Barns. It was right in the middle of town, and it was open every day except monday! The food and wine movement in this country is moving along quite well, but it's clear to me that we have a very long way to go and a lot of education to do.

So I put it to the community. Who knows about this stuff? Are there websites that talk about this? What if I want to grow my own amazing tomatoes? How do I do it? There are a lot of resources on the Stone Barns website, but on a casual perusual it doesn't appear to me that any of them talk about something as simple as how to grow amazing fruits and vegetables. It seems to me that it's a lot easier to find out how to make amazing wine than to grow this quality of produce, but maybe I'm just ignorant. What do you think?

Argentinian Wine Regions

Starting in the north, Catamarca, Salta, and Jujuy total about 6,000 hectares of land under vine. Catamarca has the most, with 3,000 hectares. Jujuy makes almost nothing besides cheap table wine. Salta is the most prestigous of the three. Salta is the highest altitude vineyard in the world, at 2,000 meters above sea level. In the summer, the daytime temperatures are 70 degrees farenheit, and at night they dip down to 54. Salta is responsible for only 2% of the total output of wine in Argentina. Controlled irrigation is a necessity here. The most successful grape here is Torrontés Riojano, which can produce a very aromatic, almost muscat-like wine, full of body and often very well balanced. Cabernet Sauvignon is the second most popular grape variety, and it is often best expressed without oak aging. Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Malbec are also found in Salta.

South of Catamarca, is La Rioja. Vines have been planted here since 1591, making it the oldest wine-producing region in Argentina. La Rioja is thought to be responsible for the Riojano strain of the Torrentés grape, which has found the most success of any of the various strains of Torrontés. Apart from its history and this important grape, however, La Rioja's significance in Argentinian wine production has faded. Right now there are only 7,000 hectares under vine, as problems maintaining irrigation have hampered its growth.

Just south of La Rioja, is San Juan, Argentina's second largest wine-producing area, with 50,000 hectares under vine. The climate in San Juan is very hot, with highs in the 100's and very little rainfall. Most of the grapes in this area are used to make brandies, vermouths, and sherry style fortified wines. In the last several years however, a few winemakers have made attempts to lower yields in pursuit of higher quality wine, with grape varieties like Chardonnay, Syrah, and Viognier.

The next most southern wine region is also the largest and most imporant one-- Mendoza. With 150,000 hectares under vine, Mendoza accounts for 75% of Argentina's wine production, and 95% of its exports. This is actually a substantial reduction in output since the 1980's, which reflects the general trend towards quality among wine makers. Soil in Mendoza is generally loose, sandy and alluvial, and it has a continental climate. Temperatures can get as hot as 97 in the summer, but wine makers often use techniques like planting large trees to offer shade for the vines. Rain is moderate, but there is always plenty of available water if irrigation is needed. The most important grape variety in Mendoza is Malbec, which can produce some very high-quality, age-worthy wines that are quite complex. Mendoza also produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese. Not everything, however, produced in Mendoza is of high quality. About half of the total production is used for grape concentrate and cheap table wine only meant for local consumption.

Río Negro and Neuquén, south of Mendoza, are two regions that have only about 5,500 hectares under vine, but are areas to watch in the near future. They both feature much cooler climates that the areas to the north, and are known for producing apples. The most common grapes found here are Torrontés, Semillon, and Sauvignon Blanc.

 

While there has been an increase in wines made from the international grape varieties in Argentina, the old grapes still dominate the plantings there. Criolla Grande, Cereza, Moscatel de Alejandria and Pedro Giménez are among the most common. Torrontés is the third most grown white grape, and it only accounts for 2,000 hectares under vine. Many think Torrontés will be the next trendy grape to come from this area.

As far as red grapes, Bonnarda is the most common, with Malbec following closely behind. Cabernet Sauvignon also has a small foothold, and due to Argentina's spanish ancestory, Tempranillo (here is is known as Tempranilla) is also grown in small quantities. There are also very small amounts of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sangiovese, Dolcetto, and Merlot.

As in Chile, Phylloxera was never a factor in Argentina, so vine grafting is not necessary. The most common vine training system is the Parral system, in which vines are raised about 2 meters off the ground to diffuse heat from the ground and make picking easier.

 

Argentinian Geography, Climate and Soil

Most of Argentina's wine-making areas are in one small strip of high, almost desert land that fits best in the continental climate category. Most of the vineyards are located about 980-1250 feet above sea level, which lets them take advantage of a lot of daytime sunlight, and cooler nighttime temperatures. There is almost no rainfall in this area, so Argentinians use irrgigation systems that get water from runoff from the Andes mountains. The soil is mostly sandy, with clay or loam over a bedrock of limestone, gravel, and clay.

 

Argentinian Wine Laws

Argentinian wine laws are not particularly strict or organized. The do have a official bureau, the Instituto Nacionale de Vitivinicultura (INV) whose current power is limited only to regulating the production of grapes and wine exports. Argentinian wine laws do not discuss what grapes are allowed to be grown in which areas or any specific rules for wine making. The only major law of note is that if a varietal is on the label, the wine must consist of at least 80% of that grape.

Argentinian wine makers have mostly been resistant to any additional laws, except in Mendoza. There, the winemakers have begun to codify the various terroir in some of the many subregions, such as Luján de Cuyo, Maipú, San Carlos, San Raphael, and San Martín.

 

History of Argentinian Winemaking

Much like Chile, Argentinian wine history dates back to the 16th century, when vines were introduced from Peru. Jesuit priests grew a grape they called Criolla Chica, which was the same grape as Pais in Argentina, and the mission grape in California. They used it as a sacremental wine, and they found the most success growing the grapes in the foothills of the Andes.

In 1822, Argentina got independence from Spain, which brought a great deal of foreign investment and grew the wine industry tremendously. Soon thereafter, railroads were completed that that meant wine could be transported from the outskirts of the country back to Buenos Aires, where it could be exported overseas.

In 1895, Edmund Norton, and Englishman, built a winery in Mendoza, called Bodegas Norton. In the early 20th century, he was the first to import vines from France to be planted there, and many others followed suit. In the 1920's Argentina's economy, much like the United States, was booming, and so was the wine industry along with it. Unfortunately, also like the United States, the depression of the 1930's also hit Argentina, and the global demand for its exports were hurt as well. Over the next several decades, Argentinian wine producers gave up on making quality export wine and instead focused on cheap, easy to drink wine for the domestic market that they could use to make a quick profit. In the late 1980's, thanks to political and economic stabilization, Argentinian winemakers began to produce quality wine again.

 

Argentina

Argentina produces close to 14 million hectaliters (400 million gallons) of wine per year, an absolutely huge amount. Eight countries have more acreage under vine, but only 3 of those are producing more wine than Argentina. This doesn't really say good things about the overall quality of Argentinian wine. Much of this wine production is focused on the domestic Argentinian market, but more recently, as in Chile, Argentinian producers have begun to make much higher quality, export-worth wine. Also like Chile, Argentina has attracted a great deal of foreign interest and investment, with many high-profile conglomerates such as Moët and Chandon bringing modern winemaking techniques and international grape varieties to the country. Argentina, along with Chile, is a place to watch for more and more well produced wines.

 

Uruguayan Wine

Uruguay is one potential up and coming wine producers in South America. It's wine history does not go back as far as other areas, dating back to just the end of the 19th century. At that point, Basque and Catalan settlers from Spain introduced Tannat, which is the most planted grape in Urguguay, and Petit Manseng. Uruguay gets a lot rain, so the risk of the crop being diluted is always present. In 1988, the Instituto Nacional de Vinivitcultura was started in an attempt to regulate the wine industry and introduce modern winemaking techniques. Most of the successfully exporting wineries are in the south, where the summers are warm.

 
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