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Wine Geeks Section

On May 8, 2009, in wine geeks, by ngorevic

This section of the website is the content that used to be located at WineScholarship.com. I use it to reinforce my wine knowledge, and try to create a blog entry for every topic I might be studying. I find it's a really good way to make all these esoteric wine concepts stick. You can search for something specific in the search box to the right, or you can explore the topics under the wine geeks topic section.

If this information seems too geeky for you, you might want to check out the Home Wine School blog , where you'll find my musings on the wine world, as well as basic lessons for beginners.

The Tongue Taste Map Does Not Exist!

On October 29, 2009, in Blog, wine geeks, by ngorevic

If you've ever taken a wine class, there a good chance you've seen this map of the tongue. Wine experts love to talk about which areas of the tongue can taste sweet, salty, bitter, and sour. But the truth is, the taste map is a total fallacy. Scientists have known the taste map is wrong for quite some time now, but for some reason the myth persists in the wine world. Wine people, it's time we woke up and kept up with science from the 1970's! Please, lets stop confusing people with all this useless pseudo-scientific dribble that doesn't even make sense when you try to demonstrate it.

For example, the taste map says that you can only taste sugar on the tip of your tongue. Iif you stick sugar on the back of your tongue without letting it touch the tip, how come you can still taste sweetness? When I took classes at the WSET certified International Wine Center, at that point they preached this stuff like it was the gospel (Just so you know, they don't teach it anymore because they do now know it's not true). We were supposed to feel a tingle on the tips of our tongue when we tasted the sugar, because supposedly all the taste buds that perceive sugar are concentrated there. When none of us really felt anything, we were told that was normal for Americans, because we eat so much sugar that our tongues are numb to the effect. Try it in Japan however, they told us, and people will freak out at the new-found tingling effect. Sounds pretty good right? I certainly bought it. I've heard veteran sommeliers discuss the map. And once I went to an American Sommelier Association presented cigar seminar at Davidoff of Geneva and they busted out the good old taste map. I always had a hard time sensing the different tastes in different areas, but I just chalked that up to my inexperienced palate at the time.

So where did this myth come from exactly? It seems that the original research was done by a German scientist named D.P. Hanig in 1901. He was trying to understand taste, so he designed an experiment to measure the sensitivities of tongue in certain areas to different tastes. He have his volunteers things to taste, and mapped out the areas of the tongue that responded the most to each taste. Then later, in 1942, a Harvard scientist named Edwin Boring used Hanig's research to plot a graph of these sensitivities. It seems that the tongue does have a very slight concentration of tastes in certain areas, so the tip of the tongue does sense slightly more sweetness than the rest. People saw this graph, and for some reason took it to mean that the tip was the only place that could sense sweetness, thus the taste map was born. Then in 1974, Virginia Collings came along and re-examined the data. She realized that while there were concentrations in some areas, all areas of the tongue could still taste each of the 4 primary tastes. The difference in sensitivity to sweetness in the tip of the tongue compared to the rest of the tongue is, in fact, negligible.

So if scientists have known this since 1974, what's taking us wine folks so long? I personally feel like wine snobs love having something complex and vague to hold over less knowledgeable folks heads to ensure their own superiority. But maybe that's being a bit conspiratorially minded of me. I guess wine people just aren't that into science. But we love to talk about the science of vinification, fermentation, and such things. It just seems like we've lagged behind on the science of taste. Apparently there are really 5 tastes, and possibly even 6, when you add Umami (the savory taste of glutamate, like in MSG) and perhaps the taste of fat. Ever see that in a wine text book? I bet not.

In the interest of science, I'm going to list a bunch of sources to prove that the taste map should be abolished from wine education. Spread the word, down with the taste map! Here's a wikipedia article talking generally about the taste map. I know, you're thinking Wikipedia, that's not an authoritative source! But it cites this article from livescience.com, and this one from Scientific American. Still not convinced? Well, maybe you should head on down to the library and look up Collings\' original research paper, titled Human taste response as a function of location of stimulation on the tongue and soft palate. In the meantime, here's a very sciencey document discussing the reasons for the persistance of the myth, to tide you over.

Tagged with: food and wine pairing • paris wine classes • paris wine courses • taste map • tongue map • wine and cheese pairing • wine classes • wine courses • wine education

North-Central Spain

On October 13, 2008, in North-Central Spain, Spain, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Two important mountain ranges are influential on the growing climate of North-Central Spain. The Pyrenees form the border between Spain and France, and provide some nice high altitude growing sites. The Cordillera Cantabria mountain range runs along the northern side of Spain, and provides protection to Rioja and the other nearby areas from the Atlantic Ocean. To the South of those mountains lies Navarra, Cariñena, Campa de Borja, Calatayud, as well as Rioja, which is so important, I will cover it in its own section. The other areas are exploding with popularity and growth in winemaking, and will soon become highly regarded as well.

To the North of the Cordillera Cantabria mountain range lies the Basque region, a unique area of Spain. In Basque country they speak their own language, which is nothing like Spanish. The most promising wine coming out of this area is called Txakoli, which is pronounced Chaw-koe-lee. Txakoli is produced in three DO's: Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina, and Txakoli de Avila. The most popular style right now is the Getariako style, which is lightly effervescent, runs a little lower in alcohol (about 10%) and has a characteristic salty briny taste, with very bright citrus style acidity. The grapes are grown very close to the ocean, and are often observed covered in salt from the ocean breezes, which may explain the characteristic salty taste.

Galicia

On October 12, 2008, in Galicia, Spain, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Galicia is an area in the northwestern corner of Spain, close to the coast. It is very different from the rest of Spain, as it is quite lush and receives a siginificant amount of annual rainfall. The area is known for its stunning seafood, and crips acidic white wines that compliment the cuisine perfectly. There are 5 DO's in Galicia the two most important of which are: Rias Baixas and Valdeorras. In addition, Galicia contains Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, and Monterrei, all of which use an assortment of grapes used in the first two areas.

Rias Baixas

Rias Baixas is is located in the southwest corner of Galicia, bordering Portugal to the north. The history of wine exportation from this area dates back to the 16th century, when the wines were popular throughout Europe. In the 19th century, however, Phylloxera devastated wine growing in this area, and most of the native varietals died out in the process. It was not until the 1970's that these grapes were successfully replanted, and modern winemaking gradually came back to the area. The most important grape in Rias Baixas is Albariño, which produces a very crisp and acidic dry white wine, with floral or peach notes. It is sometimes blended with two grapes called Loureira Blanca and Treixadura.

Valdeorras

Valdeorras is known for the Godello grape variety, which produces white wines rich in minerality and plenty of fruit. Some think this grape may have the greatest potential to make very high quality white wines in all of Spain.

Cariñena

On October 6, 2008, in Cariñena, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Cariñena is the same grape as the French Carignan. As in France, it used only as a blending grape, giving additional alcohol and adding structure to the wine. In Rioja, it is called Mazuelo and is sometimes found in blends along with Tempranillo and Garnacha. It is also used in Priorato to blend with Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. There is also a DO and a town in Spain with the same name.

Monastrell

On October 6, 2008, in Monastrell, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Monastrell is the same grape as the French Mouvedre. Monastrell does very well in the harsh and hot Spanish climate and is very resistant to disease. It produces wines that are very high in alcohol and body, and have a great deal of color. Monastrell is the most common grape used in the DO's of Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, and Alicante. It also goes by Mataro in Catalan.

Graciano

On October 6, 2008, in Graciano, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Graciano is a blending grape native to Rioja. It is used to add aromatics, tannins, and acidity to Rioja wines. Its production is very small, accounting for only 4% of the total grapes grown in Rioja. It is usually found planted in between the other grape varietals in the vineyard. If you want to impress your friends and sound really cool, you should pronounce it like Grathiano, because that's the way they say it in Spain!

Garnacha

On October 6, 2008, in Garnacha, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Garnacha Tinta, which is the same grape as the French Grenache, is the most widely planted grape in Spain. It does well in the hot and arid areas so common to Spain. Garnacha is an important grape in many Rioja blends, and it is the primary grape in wine from Priorato. Garnacha produces a wine that is juicy and spicey. Some of these wines can be quite light bodied and fruity, while others, like Priorat, are much fuller bodied, dark, and spicey.

Tempranillo

On October 6, 2008, in Black Grapes, Grape varieties, Tempranillo, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Tempranillo is the most prestigous grape grown in Rioja and Ribeira del Duero in Spain. It produces less alcholic wines than garnacha and can age very well, especially when it is blended. Tempranillo benefits from a cooler climate and requires more rainfall than garnacha. It produces a full bodied wine that has a fair amount of tannins, and often has notes of coffee or tobacco. Tempranillo also goes by the following names: Ull de Llebre (catalan), Tinta de Toro,Tinto Fino, Tinta del País, and Cencibel.

Spanish Wine Laws

On October 6, 2008, in Spain, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Spanish wine laws are governed by the Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origen (INDO). The wine laws currently lay out the following categories of wines:

Level A

Vinos de Mesa, which means table wine, is the most basic type of wine. The grapes can come from anywhere in Spain, and the bottle will simple say, "Product of Spain" on it. Most of this wine is not exported.
Vinos de Mesa de ____, is table wine that comes from a specific area. Each area has grape varietals that are permitted and will specify minimum alcohol levels. This label is often used by experimental wine makers that want to use grapes not normally found in the area.

Level B

Vinos de Calidad con Indicación Geográfica, which is on the label as Vino de la Tierra de ___, is very similar to the Vin de Pays category in France. All the grapes in these wines must come from the area mentioned on the label, and the wine must also be made and bottled in that area. The quality of the wine is judged and controlled by the consejo regulador, and the area is often waiting to apply for the higher DO status, which it may after 5 years.
Vinos con Denomicación de Origen, often abreviated as DO. DO wines have rules imposed by the consejo as far as what grapes are allowed and minimum alcohol levels. The rules must be ratified by INDO and the EU. Right now there are 69 DO's, and the number can change every year.
Vinos Con Denominación de Origen Calificada, which is abbreviated DOCa, is the highest level of classification allowed. To be a DOCa, the area had to have been a DO for at least 10 years. The quality control is even more rigorous than it is for a DO. Right now, there are only three DOCa's. Rioja was the first in 1991, followed by Priorat in 2000, and as of this year, Ribeira del Duero has also become a DOCa. Note that Priorat bottles will say DOQ instead of DOCa, because the Q stands for Qalificada in Catalan, the language spoken there.
Vinos de Pago. Pago means parcel, as in a parcel of land. Vinos de Pago is a special extra appellation, used mostly in La Manca, that implies a specific microclimate within a DO. It is not a higher level of quality than DOCa.

Spain also has laws governing the aging labels that can go on the bottle. The laws differ slightly depending on the DO, and many winemakers are beginning to disregard the lableing terms all together, as they feel it restricts them making the best wine possible. For example, if the consejo regulador requires that a crianza wine be aged in oak for 12 months, and the winemaker tastes the wine at 11 months of ageing and decides it is better for the wine to be bottled right then, he will forgoe the crianza designation completely. For a basic understanding of the labeling terms, Joven, which means young refers to a wine that has spent very little or no time in oak, and is not meant to be aged, but drank young and fruity. Crianza is a wine that usually must spend 12 months in oak and an additional 12 months in the bottle. With Reserva wines, the ageing time in the bottle increases to 24 months, but still only 12 months in the barrel. And with Gran Reserva wines, the wine must spend 24 months in oak, and 36 months in the bottle. Many times the winemakers will excede these lengths by a great deal before the wine is released.