North-Central Spain

Two important mountain ranges are influential on the growing climate of North-Central Spain. The Pyrenees form the border between Spain and France, and provide some nice high altitude growing sites. The Cordillera Cantabria mountain range runs along the northern side of Spain, and provides protection to Rioja and the other nearby areas from the Atlantic Ocean. To the South of those mountains lies Navarra, Cariñena, Campa de Borja, Calatayud, as well as Rioja, which is so important, I will cover it in its own section. The other areas are exploding with popularity and growth in winemaking, and will soon become highly regarded as well.

To the North of the Cordillera Cantabria mountain range lies the Basque region, a unique area of Spain. In Basque country they speak their own language, which is nothing like Spanish. The most promising wine coming out of this area is called Txakoli, which is pronounced Chaw-koe-lee. Txakoli is produced in three DO's: Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina, and Txakoli de Avila. The most popular style right now is the Getariako style, which is lightly effervescent, runs a little lower in alcohol (about 10%) and has a characteristic salty briny taste, with very bright citrus style acidity. The grapes are grown very close to the ocean, and are often observed covered in salt from the ocean breezes, which may explain the characteristic salty taste.

 

Castilla y León

Castilla y León is located in North Central Spain, and was historically the seat of Spanish royalty during the renaissance. The most well known DO's of the area are Toro, Bierzo, Ribera del Duero, and Rueda.

Toro

Toro is an area that has changed its style of red wines from rustic and unrefined to what it is now-- powerfully rich and ripe. The main grapes known from this area is Tinto de Toro, which is the same grape as Tempranillo. Toro features very sandy soil. Because of this, and the large distance between vines, it remained largely immune to the harm of phyloxera.

Bierzo

Bierzo produces white wines mainly made from Godello, and red wines made from the Mencía. The soil in Bierzo has a large amount of slate, which gives a very mineral quality to the red wines especially. Most of the area is located at an altitude of approximately 3,000 feet, which allows the grapes to slowly ripen for a long time, adding complexity to the wine. This area is on the rise, and always attracting new talented winemakers due to the attractiveness of the growing conditions.

Ribera del Duero

As of this year, Ribero del Duero was elevated to a DOCa, putting it on par with Rioja and Priorato in terms of recognition. The area lies along the Duero river, which is the same river as the Douro that runs through the Port producing areas of Portugal. The soil of the area is sandy, with outcropping of limestone and chalk. During the day temperatures in the area can reach 100 degrees, but the nights usually remain very cool, which helps lend acidity to the wines. There is a danger of frost, but if the winemaker is attentive to this problem, the growing conditions can be ideal. Tinto Fino, yet another name for Tempranillo, is the primary grape here. For some reason, Ribera del Duero's recognition as a top wine producing area has come later than others, but the wines being produced their right now are indeed word class. The most receent 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages were particularly outstanding, which has helped its reputation recently.

Rueda

Rueda is now known for its production of Verdejo, a grape very similar in profile to Sauvignon Blanc. At one time, it was used to produce a sherry style wine. While the Moors ruled the area comprising Jerez, the main Sherry producing area, it was impossible to produce sherry there under Islamic law, so Rueda took over sherry production.  When phylloxera hit Rueda, however, sherry production returned to Jerez. In the 1970's the Marque de Riscal decided that the limestone soils would produce a crisp, light, and dry white wine, which gave rise to the style of wine we know from Rueda today. There are three types of white wines produced in Rueda today. Rudeda Superior must contain at least 75% Verdejo. Another style is made of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and Rueda Blanca must contain at least 40% Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc. Rueda also produces sparkling wine, which does not fall under the Cava DO. Instead it is under the DO Rueda Espumoso.  These wines are made mostly from the Verdejo grape as well.

 

Galicia

Galicia is an area in the northwestern corner of Spain, close to the coast. It is very different from the rest of Spain, as it is quite lush and receives a siginificant amount of annual rainfall. The area is known for its stunning seafood, and crips acidic white wines that compliment the cuisine perfectly. There are 5 DO's in Galicia the two most important of which are: Rias Baixas and Valdeorras. In addition, Galicia contains Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, and Monterrei, all of which use an assortment of grapes used in the first two areas.

Rias Baixas

Rias Baixas is is located in the southwest corner of Galicia, bordering Portugal to the north. The history of wine exportation from this area dates back to the 16th century, when the wines were popular throughout Europe. In the 19th century, however, Phylloxera devastated wine growing in this area, and most of the native varietals died out in the process. It was not until the 1970's that these grapes were successfully replanted, and modern winemaking gradually came back to the area. The most important grape in Rias Baixas is Albariño, which produces a very crisp and acidic dry white wine, with floral or peach notes. It is sometimes blended with two grapes called Loureira Blanca and Treixadura.

Valdeorras

Valdeorras is known for the Godello grape variety, which produces white wines rich in minerality and plenty of fruit. Some think this grape may have the greatest potential to make very high quality white wines in all of Spain.

 

Spanish Wine Laws

Spanish wine laws are governed by the Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origen (INDO). The wine laws currently lay out the following categories of wines:

Level A

    1. Vinos de Mesa, which means table wine, is the most basic type of wine. The grapes can come from anywhere in Spain, and the bottle will simple say, "Product of Spain" on it. Most of this wine is not exported.
    2. Vinos de Mesa de ____, is table wine that comes from a specific area. Each area has grape varietals that are permitted and will specify minimum alcohol levels. This label is often used by experimental wine makers that want to use grapes not normally found in the area.

      Level B

        1. Vinos de Calidad con Indicación Geográfica, which is on the label as Vino de la Tierra de ___, is very similar to the Vin de Pays category in France. All the grapes in these wines must come from the area mentioned on the label, and the wine must also be made and bottled in that area. The quality of the wine is judged and controlled by the consejo regulador, and the area is often waiting to apply for the higher DO status, which it may after 5 years.
        2. Vinos con Denomicación de Origen, often abreviated as DO. DO wines have rules imposed by the consejo as far as what grapes are allowed and minimum alcohol levels. The rules must be ratified by INDO and the EU. Right now there are 69 DO's, and the number can change every year.
        3. Vinos Con Denominación de Origen Calificada, which is abbreviated DOCa, is the highest level of classification allowed. To be a DOCa, the area had to have been a DO for at least 10 years. The quality control is even more rigorous than it is for a DO. Right now, there are only three DOCa's. Rioja was the first in 1991, followed by Priorat in 2000, and as of this year, Ribeira del Duero has also become a DOCa. Note that Priorat bottles will say DOQ instead of DOCa, because the Q stands for Qalificada in Catalan, the language spoken there.
        4. Vinos de Pago. Pago means parcel, as in a parcel of land. Vinos de Pago is a special extra appellation, used mostly in La Manca, that implies a specific microclimate within a DO. It is not a higher level of quality than DOCa.

        Spain also has laws governing the aging labels that can go on the bottle. The laws differ slightly depending on the DO, and many winemakers are beginning to disregard the lableing terms all together, as they feel it restricts them making the best wine possible. For example, if the consejo regulador requires that a crianza wine be aged in oak for 12 months, and the winemaker tastes the wine at 11 months of ageing and decides it is better for the wine to be bottled right then, he will forgoe the crianza designation completely. For a basic understanding of the labeling terms, Joven, which means young refers to a wine that has spent very little or no time in oak, and is not meant to be aged, but drank young and fruity. Crianza is a wine that usually must spend 12 months in oak and an additional 12 months in the bottle. With Reserva wines, the ageing time in the bottle increases to 24 months, but still only 12 months in the barrel. And with Gran Reserva wines, the wine must spend 24 months in oak, and 36 months in the bottle. Many times the winemakers will excede these lengths by a great deal before the wine is released.

           

          History of Spanish Wine Making

          The history of wine making in Spain dates back several thousand years, as it does in most European countries. The Phoneticians were the first to cultivate wine in Spain on an organized level, around 1000 BC. When Rome occupied Spain in 100 BC, Spanish wine was traded throughout Europe under the Roman Empire. At this point it was often used as a blending wine to raise alcohol levels of wines made in cooler areas of Europe.

          In 711, when the Moors conquered Spain, wine was technically outlawed under Islamic law. It appears that wine trade still exists though, as it was taxed by the Moors. The Moors also developed the technique of distillation, which they used to make medicinal alcohol. This technique very likely may have been adopted by the Spaniards to make Brandy, and to make the spirits used to fortify Sherry.

          Phylloxera did not hit Spain until the 19th century, significantly after it had devastated most of Europe's vineyards. As a result, Spain was able to benefit from discoveries made about grafting techniques, so when the disease did spread, they were able to use the new grafting techniques to save themselves. The same held true for Powdery Mildew, which also started the trend of French winemakers coming to Spain. While the French waited for their fields to recover from the mildew, they foraged south into Spain, bringing French winemaking techniques with them, establishing wine areas that are still vital to Spain's wine industry today. They also introduced the use of oak barrels as a wine making technique.

          In 1872, José Raventós used the French méthode champenoise to make a champagne style sparkling wine, which is today called Cava. Spain had previously tried to recreate Champagne using Champagne grapes, but was not successful. José risky innovation was to use native Spanish grapes to make Cava. The risk paid off, as in 2001 Cava overtook Champagne as the most consumed sparkling wine in the world.

          The Spanish Civil War in the 1930's and World War II took a huge toll on Spanish winemaking. Many of the vineyards were devastated by the wars, and the conflict with other nations virtually eliminated the trade of wine. After the war was over, many of the smaller estates could not afford to replant their grapes, and died off. For a long time only large conglomerates produced very ordinary table wine. On top of this Franco's medieval dictatorship that followed prevented Spain from modernizing in all fassets of its civilization. When he died in 1975, Spain took great pains to learn modernizing techniques, and the wine industry began to develop once more. As a result, Spain's wine history was almost restarted in the 70's, far behind the innovations of the French and Italians.

          Spain became a member of the European Union in 1986, and with that came a great deal of financial support for the wine industry. So in fact, the production of quality wine in Spain came quiet a while after the United States. As you might expect then, Spain is still in its infancy of understanding its own terroir and what it takes to produce top quality wine. While there are many fine producers using the latest techniques, there are also many who have not caught up with them. It is risky, for example, to order a siginificantly aged red wine in a restaurant in Spain today, because those wines were not often stored the way they should have been, and they are often cooked beyond drinkability. There are however, many fine wines coming out of Spain, and the potential for more to develop is ever-present.

           

          Spain

          Spain is very large and very diverse winemaking area. It has the most hectares under vine (1.2 million) in Europe, yet it falls in third place in total wine production, behind France and Italy. A lot of the grapes grown are used to produce Sherry Vinegar and Spanish brandy. Spain's climate ranges from Maritime areas near the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, to cooler high altitude locations, to arid almost desert like climates. There are also many different soil types, which I will discuss in detail when I talk about each individual region. Unlike France and Italy, Spain has many areas whose potential has not yet been fully tapped, and is sure to grow in importance as time passes.