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Grapes are like Tomatoes?

On July 28, 2008, in Blog, wine geeks, by ngorevic

This might not fit into the rest of my posts on this blog, but I had this amazing experience last night, so I feel like I need to share it. I went to eat at Blue Hill at Stone Barns near Tarrytown, NY. This place is absolutely astounding. The restaurant is in the middle of the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, a small farm where they raise almost all the animals and grow almost all the vegetables that are served in the restaurant. They don't even have a real menu, just a list of potential ingredients the cooks can use to make your meal. But I don't really need to write a full review of the experience there, that's been done already. Here's a really good review, for starters.

What caught my attention was this moment when our waiter brought out a rather large tray of about a dozen different tomatoes, which he referred to as "varietals." As a wine person, that caught my ear. To me, a varietal starts with a plant carefully cloned in a lab to match the terroir. The process of growing and harvesting a varietal is a combination of art and science, and it's the only way to make really amazing wine. But tomatoes? Ok, now I was listening! He proceeded to name each varietal, and let me tell you, there were some crazy ones, including accordion tomatoes like these:

He went on to explain that the farm had planted about 80 different varietals of tomatoes, and then subsequently narrowed them down to 35 that they liked, and were presenting about 11 or so to us for our viewing pleasure.

This sparked a question that had occurred to me recently when I was in the South of France. My wife and I went on a market tour and kitchen tasting with a Michelin starred chef in Cannes. The vegetables I saw there were like nothing I had ever seen before. And I grew up near farms where we'd often stop by little roadside stands to buy freshly picked produce. That farm produce was great, but the produce they had in the Cannes market was an entirely different animal, bursting with flavors that made you weak in the knees. Every bite made you feel blessed to be alive. Obviously they understand something different about growing vegetables in France. I found myself wondering what they did differently, and whether or not it had anything in common with the way they grow grapes. As I've written here before, wine makers in France (as well as everywhere else good wine is made) know that stressing the vine and reducing yields makes the flavor of the grapes more concentrated. The vine thinks it is dying, so it pours all its energy in to making its fruit, resulting in higher sugar levels and flavors.

So, my question for the waiter was, are there similarities between growing good wine grapes and growing great tomatoes? Does reducing yields make for more flavorful tomatoes? His answer-- Yes. He said apparently there is a lot in common, and they have discovered that reduced yields do make for better tomatoes. I had so many more questions, but there really wasn't time to go into it all in the middle of dinner. Do farmers know that reducing yields makes better vegetables? Do our farmers over-irrigate their crops to increase yields so they can make more money? Do they do that because they're afraid Americans won't buy them because we don't know what we're missing? Do vegetable plants need to be as stressed and starved for water and good soil as vines do, or is it just a question of pruning at a certain point during the growing cycle to reduce the yields? My questions go on and on.

I've perused the Stone Barns website, but it doesn't seem to have much information readily accessible about this sort of thing. Places like UC Davis have made great efforts to bring French wine making techniques to the United States, and we're all the benefactors of their work. Hopefully that's what Stone Barns is trying to do now. This is important to me, because when I tasted that produce in Cannes, my immediate thought was that I need more of this, and how much can real estate really cost on the Riviera? It was astounding to me that people who live there can eat like that every day. This market wasn't some special secret place hidden away like Stone Barns. It was right in the middle of town, and it was open every day except monday! The food and wine movement in this country is moving along quite well, but it's clear to me that we have a very long way to go and a lot of education to do.

So I put it to the community. Who knows about this stuff? Are there websites that talk about this? What if I want to grow my own amazing tomatoes? How do I do it? There are a lot of resources on the Stone Barns website, but on a casual perusual it doesn't appear to me that any of them talk about something as simple as how to grow amazing fruits and vegetables. It seems to me that it's a lot easier to find out how to make amazing wine than to grow this quality of produce, but maybe I'm just ignorant. What do you think?

Argentinian Wine Regions

On July 27, 2008, in Argentina, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Starting in the north, Catamarca, Salta, and Jujuy total about 6,000 hectares of land under vine. Catamarca has the most, with 3,000 hectares. Jujuy makes almost nothing besides cheap table wine. Salta is the most prestigous of the three. Salta is the highest altitude vineyard in the world, at 2,000 meters above sea level. In the summer, the daytime temperatures are 70 degrees farenheit, and at night they dip down to 54. Salta is responsible for only 2% of the total output of wine in Argentina. Controlled irrigation is a necessity here. The most successful grape here is Torrontés Riojano, which can produce a very aromatic, almost muscat-like wine, full of body and often very well balanced. Cabernet Sauvignon is the second most popular grape variety, and it is often best expressed without oak aging. Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Malbec are also found in Salta.

South of Catamarca, is La Rioja. Vines have been planted here since 1591, making it the oldest wine-producing region in Argentina. La Rioja is thought to be responsible for the Riojano strain of the Torrentés grape, which has found the most success of any of the various strains of Torrontés. Apart from its history and this important grape, however, La Rioja's significance in Argentinian wine production has faded. Right now there are only 7,000 hectares under vine, as problems maintaining irrigation have hampered its growth.

Just south of La Rioja, is San Juan, Argentina's second largest wine-producing area, with 50,000 hectares under vine. The climate in San Juan is very hot, with highs in the 100's and very little rainfall. Most of the grapes in this area are used to make brandies, vermouths, and sherry style fortified wines. In the last several years however, a few winemakers have made attempts to lower yields in pursuit of higher quality wine, with grape varieties like Chardonnay, Syrah, and Viognier.

The next most southern wine region is also the largest and most imporant one-- Mendoza. With 150,000 hectares under vine, Mendoza accounts for 75% of Argentina's wine production, and 95% of its exports. This is actually a substantial reduction in output since the 1980's, which reflects the general trend towards quality among wine makers. Soil in Mendoza is generally loose, sandy and alluvial, and it has a continental climate. Temperatures can get as hot as 97 in the summer, but wine makers often use techniques like planting large trees to offer shade for the vines. Rain is moderate, but there is always plenty of available water if irrigation is needed. The most important grape variety in Mendoza is Malbec, which can produce some very high-quality, age-worthy wines that are quite complex. Mendoza also produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese. Not everything, however, produced in Mendoza is of high quality. About half of the total production is used for grape concentrate and cheap table wine only meant for local consumption.

Río Negro and Neuquén, south of Mendoza, are two regions that have only about 5,500 hectares under vine, but are areas to watch in the near future. They both feature much cooler climates that the areas to the north, and are known for producing apples. The most common grapes found here are Torrontés, Semillon, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Argentinian Grape Varieties and Viticulture

On July 27, 2008, in Argentina, wine geeks, by ngorevic

While there has been an increase in wines made from the international grape varieties in Argentina, the old grapes still dominate the plantings there. Criolla Grande, Cereza, Moscatel de Alejandria and Pedro Giménez are among the most common. Torrontés is the third most grown white grape, and it only accounts for 2,000 hectares under vine. Many think Torrontés will be the next trendy grape to come from this area.

As far as red grapes, Bonnarda is the most common, with Malbec following closely behind. Cabernet Sauvignon also has a small foothold, and due to Argentina's spanish ancestory, Tempranillo (here is is known as Tempranilla) is also grown in small quantities. There are also very small amounts of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sangiovese, Dolcetto, and Merlot.

As in Chile, Phylloxera was never a factor in Argentina, so vine grafting is not necessary. The most common vine training system is the Parral system, in which vines are raised about 2 meters off the ground to diffuse heat from the ground and make picking easier.

Argentinian Geography, Climate and Soil

On July 27, 2008, in Argentina, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Most of Argentina's wine-making areas are in one small strip of high, almost desert land that fits best in the continental climate category. Most of the vineyards are located about 980-1250 feet above sea level, which lets them take advantage of a lot of daytime sunlight, and cooler nighttime temperatures. There is almost no rainfall in this area, so Argentinians use irrgigation systems that get water from runoff from the Andes mountains. The soil is mostly sandy, with clay or loam over a bedrock of limestone, gravel, and clay.

Argentinian Wine Laws

On July 27, 2008, in Argentina, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Argentinian wine laws are not particularly strict or organized. The do have a official bureau, the Instituto Nacionale de Vitivinicultura (INV) whose current power is limited only to regulating the production of grapes and wine exports. Argentinian wine laws do not discuss what grapes are allowed to be grown in which areas or any specific rules for wine making. The only major law of note is that if a varietal is on the label, the wine must consist of at least 80% of that grape.

Argentinian wine makers have mostly been resistant to any additional laws, except in Mendoza. There, the winemakers have begun to codify the various terroir in some of the many subregions, such as Luján de Cuyo, Maipú, San Carlos, San Raphael, and San Martín.

History of Argentinian Winemaking

On July 27, 2008, in Argentina, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Much like Chile, Argentinian wine history dates back to the 16th century, when vines were introduced from Peru. Jesuit priests grew a grape they called Criolla Chica, which was the same grape as Pais in Argentina, and the mission grape in California. They used it as a sacremental wine, and they found the most success growing the grapes in the foothills of the Andes.

In 1822, Argentina got independence from Spain, which brought a great deal of foreign investment and grew the wine industry tremendously. Soon thereafter, railroads were completed that that meant wine could be transported from the outskirts of the country back to Buenos Aires, where it could be exported overseas.

In 1895, Edmund Norton, and Englishman, built a winery in Mendoza, called Bodegas Norton. In the early 20th century, he was the first to import vines from France to be planted there, and many others followed suit. In the 1920's Argentina's economy, much like the United States, was booming, and so was the wine industry along with it. Unfortunately, also like the United States, the depression of the 1930's also hit Argentina, and the global demand for its exports were hurt as well. Over the next several decades, Argentinian wine producers gave up on making quality export wine and instead focused on cheap, easy to drink wine for the domestic market that they could use to make a quick profit. In the late 1980's, thanks to political and economic stabilization, Argentinian winemakers began to produce quality wine again.

Argentina

On July 27, 2008, in Argentina, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Argentina produces close to 14 million hectaliters (400 million gallons) of wine per year, an absolutely huge amount. Eight countries have more acreage under vine, but only 3 of those are producing more wine than Argentina. This doesn't really say good things about the overall quality of Argentinian wine. Much of this wine production is focused on the domestic Argentinian market, but more recently, as in Chile, Argentinian producers have begun to make much higher quality, export-worth wine. Also like Chile, Argentina has attracted a great deal of foreign interest and investment, with many high-profile conglomerates such as Moët and Chandon bringing modern winemaking techniques and international grape varieties to the country. Argentina, along with Chile, is a place to watch for more and more well produced wines.

Uruguayan Wine

On July 27, 2008, in Uruguay, wine geeks, by ngorevic

Uruguay is one potential up and coming wine producers in South America. It's wine history does not go back as far as other areas, dating back to just the end of the 19th century. At that point, Basque and Catalan settlers from Spain introduced Tannat, which is the most planted grape in Urguguay, and Petit Manseng. Uruguay gets a lot rain, so the risk of the crop being diluted is always present. In 1988, the Instituto Nacional de Vinivitcultura was started in an attempt to regulate the wine industry and introduce modern winemaking techniques. Most of the successfully exporting wineries are in the south, where the summers are warm.

Chilean Wine Regions

On July 27, 2008, in Chile, wine geeks, by ngorevic

The northernmost grape-growing region in Chile is Atacama. This is one of the dryest climates on earth and is a terrible climate for growing anything used to make wine. Most of the grapes grown here are used for table grapes, and an Oak-aged brandy type spirit called PIsco. Pisco is usually made of Moscatel, Toronotel, and Pedor Jimenez and is the natinal spirit of Chile.

Coquimbo is the next wine region south from Atacama, and is very similar in climate. Coquimbo also produces a lot of table grapes and Pisco, but there are a few pockets of vineyards in cooler climate areas closer the Pacific. The Limari valley, for one, is exporting some wine made of international varietals like Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay. The main limitation there, however, is that the high heat requires too much irrigation to produce a lot of high quality wine.

The next southerly grape growing region is the Aconcagua Valley. This is the first of the main export producing wine regions in Chile. Here it is hot and dry, with temperatures in summer reaching as high as 86 degrees farenheit. The soil in the valley is generally alluvial. For the most part, red wine grapes are grown here, including mostly Cabernet Sauvignon.

Traveling further south, Casablanca is the next wine region. Casablanca is technically part of the Aconcagua Valley, but it has its own cooler microclimate due to it's higher altitude, about 1,640 feet above sea level. Casablanca often has cool morning fog, and a slow ripening season with almost constant cloud cover. White grape varieties do best here, with Chardonnay taking the lead. There are some red grape wines produced here, but most of the fruit brought in from the Maipo valley to the south.

The Maipo Valley is the oldest and most well-known wine producing area in Chile. It is a small area, with only 7,000 hectares under vine, in the Central Valley, which is just south of Santiago. The most common grapes here are Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc are also grown to smaller extents. There is very little rain here, requiring the use of prudent irrigation. The soil is sandy and alluvial with calcium deposits left by the Maipo river.

Just south from the Maipo Valley is the Rapel Valley, known for producing full-bodied, age-worthy red wines. Cabernet Sauvignon is the most comm-on grape grown here. The climate is sunny during the summer with cool nights and moderate rainfall during the winter. The soil is made up of clay and calcareous Tuffeau, a type of soil common in the best wine producing areas of the Loire Valley in France. Because of the ideal soil and climate conditions here, investment in the area has been sky rocketing in the past 10 years.

Further south, the Maule Valley is the the largest wine producing area in Chile, with about 30,000 hectares under vine. The Pacific ocean lends cooler temperatures, and rainfall is a constant threat. Summers can be fairly warm during the day, with temperatures reaching up to 88 degrees fareneheit. The nights, however, are much cooler, which leads to a good balance between sugar and acidity in the grapes. Pais, the mission grape, is the most common varietal here. Some wineries in the subregion of the Curicó are starting to plant more international varities, with many thinking that Merlot may become quie successful. Experimentation with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir has also begun.

The southernmost wine producing area is Bío-Bío, which has 13,000 hectares under vine. Most of the wine produced here is intended only for local consumption, and is split evenly among red and white wines, produced from Pais and Moscatel. This region generally has too much rainfall, low temperatures, and too little sunlight to produce export-quality wine.

Chilean grape varieties

On July 25, 2008, in Chile, wine geeks, by ngorevic

The most commonly grown grape varities in Chile include Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Carmenere, and Moscatel. Sauvignon in this case is not Sauvignon Blanc, but a distant relative, possibly Sauvignon Vert. Some grape varieties in Chile have been confused with more common international ones, and genetic testing has recently revealed the inaccuracies. Carmenere, for example, looks a lot like Merlot and had many people fooled for a long time. Carmenere was a grape grown in France that has almost entirely fallen out of favor there, but some think it may have found it's ideal growing area in Chile.

The most widely grown grape in Chile is Cabernet Sauvignon, with 16,000 hectares under vine. Additional grapes include Semillon, Torontel, and even Pinot Noir has begun to find some homes there.